Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Kalymnos & Swanage Indian Summer

After the recent spate of bolt clipping in Cheddar, I headed to Kalymnos with Gilly for Neil Gresham's 40th celebrations. A flippin great team of mates of all shapes and sizes came along and we all had proper giggle. Conditions weren't the best for hard climbing as it's still pretty hot & humid there in September, but amongst the swimming, snorkeling, moped racing and G 'n T drinking I did manage to squeeze in a few routes.

I'd hoped to get on some less steep and more crimpy routes that suit my style more but the conditions were too crap, so i ended up focusing on the more obvious Kalymnian style of tufas and massive jugs in an upside down wonderland. Highlights included onsights of Lactic Shock 7c, Adam 7c+, Super Lolita 8a and Fun De Chichune 8a. The latter route now firmly entrenched in climbing folklore as possibly the worlds most comfortably soft 8a. Ahhh...holiday grades.

Another highlight was going to the new sector ET where Neil has been busy putting up some new hard classics. I managed the 2nd ascent of his route Tyrant 8a+ and can confirm its absolutely brilliant.

Kalymnos Guardian

Beach Life

Rest day essentials

On getting home we were greeted with the fabulous Indian summer we've all just been revelling in. It almost felt like we hadnt come home and so the best place to continue the endlessly overhanging Kalymnos theme was Blacker's Hole in Swanage. The 45m 45 degree overhanging Infinite Gravity 8a+ has had a spate of ascents of late and since Bob Hickish did his new 8c down there the clips have been in too. Andy Long very generously has left his very long QD's in the route and as there are 23 bolts and its so steep, this was the perfect opportunity to go and get it done.

I 1st went down with Ben West from Bristol but, fell rom the top crux near the top, so went back a couple of days later with Tim Emmett. We only had an hour or so of time this day so i (foolishly) decided to just get on it without warming up and go for it. Needless to say i dropped it on the lip by the last bolt boxed out of me mind. We both came back the next day and did the route fine before enjoying an amazing sunset and a swim in the calm warm sea. It was 2 October. Unbelievable.

On the never ending pumpfest of Infinite Gravity 8a+
Photo: Andy Long 

The perfect time of day for red pointing - Infinite Gravity 8a+
Photo: Tim Emmett

Jumping off the top after topping out - 2 October!
Photo: Tim Emmett

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